Rear+Tire+Change+How-To



Use a piece of wood clamped against the rim on the opposite side of the tire. This allows full compression on the other side to pop the bead.

Wedge the tire so it doesn't rotate while you are using the clamp. Just makes it easier.

Tighten the clamp until the tire is compressed. You dont have to go all the way. Take note, if you are removing the tire to repair it, use a block of wood under the clamp to prevent damage to the sidewall.

I use Motion Pro 15" irons. You might like to use 3, it does make things abit easier.

Mix up a batch of soapy liquid dish soap and water, works great. Liberally apply.

Using your irons, start to loosen the bead. It sometimes takes abit of effort. Be patient.

Move around the rim, working the bead loose. Add soapy water as needed.

With one side of the bead popped all the way around, move the wood block to the popped side in preperation to pop the other side.

Side two, your half way done! Slip some wood, etc under the tire, just enough to touch the tire, not enough that it is loading the suspension.

Remove the axle nut, note that I have reversed my axle. More on that later.

Slide the axle out. It should slide out nicely if you have the tire properly shimmed above the floor.

Note how the wheel sits in place after removal of the axle

Push the wheel forward and then slip the chain off the sprocket and hang it on the swingarm.

Now slide the wheel back, and disengage the real caliper from the disc and the slot that holds the caliper to the swingarm.

Take your tire shim out from under the tire (the wood block), then move the wheel back at an angle.

Remove the sprocket carrier. It should be relatively snug, if it just "falls off" consider replacing the rubber cushions.

Note the internal spacer, remove it and inspect the carrier bearing. I have replaced all my rear and front wheel bearings with double sealed bearings. The factory ones only have a seal on one side.

You will want to clean and regrease the axle spacer. Replace if worn or damaged

Closer look at the sprocket carrier bearing. It should turn smoothly.

Inspect the brake side bearing and seal. Replace as required. It is a bit of a bear to change out the bearing, but if it feels rough, change it out.

Ok, back to the tire. Spray some more soapy water on the bead and get ready to start spooning....

Take your time and work on small areas. I start on the side of the tire furthest away from me. This is where 3 irons come in handy, but I have always just used two. Gloves and safety glasses should be used for protection.

Work your way around until the tire is completely off on this side. It generally comes off pretty easy if things are lubed up nicely.

Next we need to get the tire off the wheel. Note all the Dyna Beads. They are sticking to the tire due to the soapy water at this point.

To completely remove the tire, you will want to stand the tire up, and place your irons as shown.

If need be, add some more soapy water to help things out. Work from the back side of the tire as shown.

The tire will pretty much pop right off at this point.

Take note of the balance mark, some are yellow, some are red and some tires don't even have them. Also make sure to find the direction arrown on the tire and orientate it to the wheels turning direction.

Time to lube up. I try to not get any water inside the tire, just so the Dyna Beads don't stick. (if you're externally balancing, dont worry about it).

Rub some lube on the inside edge of the bead as well. This will make life much easier slipping the tire over the bead of the rim.

Lube the rim itself.

Also apply lube to the edge.

Although it looks like its sitting on the floor, I am taking the pic standing looking down on the wheel. Line up the valve with the balance mark, and drop the lower lip of the wheel into the bottom of the tire.

Take special note, I am pushing on the wheel with my foot to keep it low into the tire, this ensures enough slack when you start spooning. Not you are spooning inside the tire in order to pry it on to the rim. It actually goes on fairly easy once you put your back into it...

Again, viewing from a standing position looking down with the assemble against my legs. We are ready to pop the tire on to the other side.

More lube (are you seeing the pattern here?).....

I always start on the part of the tire closest to me. Spoon the tire on for the first 12"-18", then force that part of the tire down using your knees so that it is well below the bead. This will be the most important part of ensuring the rest of the tire goes on easily.

If you are new to tire changing, having an extra hand for the final part is really handy. It is critical to not let the initially spooned section of the tire come back against the bead, you just wont have enough slack to get the remainder of the tire. Take your time, take a break if need be.

The final little bit is generally the toughest until you get the hang of it.

Ok, this is for you Dyna Bead guys. I make a almost-flat funnel and pour the beads in now. It sure beats trying to get them down the air valve.

Time to add air.....don't be alarmed as the tire loudy "pops" on to the bead. If you are having trouble initially getting the tire to take air, bounce the wheel hard against the floor while rotating it. I have never had a tire not take air the first time, but some have had issues. Inspect the seating, make sure it is even all the way around, occassionaly a tire just wont fully go on to the bead. Check your air pressure and remember it...check it again an hour or later to ensure it is holding air.

Clean the internal spacer and apply some grease to the surfaces.

Grease the spacer and apply grease to the seal lip. This will also help hold them in place while installing the wheel.

Clean and grease the spacer and the seal lip.

I like to use chain wax for lubing the axle. Grease works fine too, but pretty much all of it comes off when you install the axle.

Slip the wheel back into place just like when you removed it. Note I have a block of wood that the tire is going to sit on, you might have to experiment with various thickness's. The goal is to have the wheel at just the right height to slip the axle in without having to manually lift the wheel.

This is why I have reversed the axle from the stock position. Having ensured the caliper is in the holding slot, slide the axle in to keep the caliper in place. To make things easier, I had also spread the pads using a wide screw driver.

Having ensured the caliper was in position and slid on to the disc, push the wheel in enough to now slip the chain on to the sprocket. Make sure you have not pushed to axle in just yet, or you will have to loosen off the chain adjusters.

Ok, so if you have everything lined up, and ensured your spacers didn't fall out (hence the grease on the spacers) the axle should slide right on it.


 * IMPORTANT, IMPORTANT! ** Before you proceed any further, pump up the back brake. Otherwise you are in for a rude awakening the first time you go for a spin.

Tighten up your axle and place a cotter pin or spring clip thru the nut. Double check your chain tension (it shouldnt have changed if you didnt touch the adjusters). Give everything a quick double check, including tire pressure. You may now have a beer to reward yourself for a job well done.