1. Most wires that are solid Orange or Orange with a color strip is a Switched 12 Volt wire. However, there are a few Orange with stripe wires you do not what to use. Stay away from the Orange/White, Orange/Black & Orange/Red wires, these are still switched power but not ones to mess with. Switched 12 Volt means the wire is HOT when the key is ON. The reason for using switched power to power accessories, is if an accessory is left on unintentionally it won't drain your battery.

2. Any wire that is Black with a White strip is a Ground wire. You will find many small rectangular connectors with 5 or 6 Black/White wires running into them around the bike. These are ground connection terminals and do not plug into anything. Don’t use these as grounding points for accessories. Photos:

3. Best places to obtain Switched 12 Volt power for an Auxiliary Fuse Block Relay.

  • A. Tail Light wire - This is the Brown wire running in the tail harness along the left rear subframe. After the tail harness connector (located at the rear of the subframe) it is the Graywire. Note: This wire is HOT when the key is in the PARK or ON position. This is good to use if you what to run accessories without having the ignition & lights on. But, if in park for an emergency and using emergency flashers your accessories will be energized. This is my favorite, but I also install a small underseat switch to disable the aux box when desired. Brown wire also avail under fuse box 05 & up 1000 & all 650.
Eastern Beaver Kit.
  • B. OEM heated grip connector - Located behind radiator on left side & usually taped to the main harness. A Black connector with 2 wires going to it. Orange/Green wire is Swithed Hot and Black/White is Ground. If you do not want to cut this connector, then order Suzuki part no. 36852-06G00 (~ $11). This is the horn lead wire and the connector will mate.
Eastern Beaver Kit.
  • C. Rear Brake Light Switch wire - Located just forward of the battery. A small clear white 2 wire connector, one Orange/Green & one White/Black. Orange/Green wire is switched Hot, no ground wire available here.
Eastern Beaver Kit.
  • D. Instrument Panel Power wires - Located inside left side cowling in wire pocket. Must remove cowling panel and strip part of harness cover off for wire access. The Orange/Green wire is switched & the red/white wire is full time power.
  • E. Any of the Orange (or striped Orange) wires under the OEM fuse box - You can just detach and pull the fuse box up to gain access. The Brown tail light wire is also here on 05 & up 1000 & all 650.

4. Tail Section wire colors. First listed color will be as it is in the tail harness running along the left rear subframe. The Second color is after the connector located at the rear end of the subframe (this is the part that actually connects to the lights).

  • A. Tail Light – Brown & then Gray
  • B. Stop Light – White/Black & then White/Black
  • C. Left Turn – Black & then Black
  • D. Right Turn – Light Green & then Light Green
  • E. License - Brown & then Gray (Same as Tail)
  • F. Ground - Black/White & then Black/White

5. Headlight Wires. First color listed is as they are after the fuse and in the forward section. The second color is from the handlebar switch to the fuse.

  • A. High Beam - Yellow from fuse to light. Yellow/Blue from switch to fuse.
  • B. Low Beam - Black/Blue from fuse to light. White/Blue from switch to fuse.

6. Other wires that may be of use.

  • A. Tachometer signal – Brown/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control or Datatool Digi Gear).
  • B. Speed signal from Speed Sensor – Pink/White wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control, Pro Oiler or Datatool Digi Gear).
  • C. Blinker signal (power) to control switch. Light Blue wire located under OEM fuse box.
  • D. Gear Position Sensor signal (going to ECU) – Pink wire in 3 wire connector just forward of fuse box on the 1000 & behind the left main frame above foot peg on 650.
  • E. Neutral Light Signal - Blue/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Datatool Digi Gear).

7. Grounding point for accessories. All ground leads should run back to the battery negative terminal. Either directly or through an Aux Grounding block or Aux Fuse Block that also contains grounding terminals. The Ground Block, whichever kind, should be connected to the battery negative terminal with a 10 gage or 12 gage wire. One last method for a ground buss if you don’t wish to use blocks, is to have a short 10 gage lead running from the battery to which you solder all of the smaller ground leads from accessories and cover with tape or shrink tubing.

8. How to install a Manual Fan Override switch. Attach a 2 position (On/Off) toggle or rocker switch across the 2 wires running into the thermostatic fan switch (both Black/Red), located on the rear-right side of the radiator. Do not cut wires from the thermostatic switch or the auto fan mode will be disabled.

9. Wiring Auxiliary Driving lights. Most come with a lighting relay and a relay must be used. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. An On/Off switch, High beam, Low beam or switched power on (not recommended) may latch the relay. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box.

Related thread:

10. Wiring Auxiliary Horns. It is highly recommended to use a horn or lighting relay for power to the horns. This relay should be latched using the wires that feed the OEM horn. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box. The popular Stebel air horn requires a 15 amp fuse.

Related thread:

11. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

  • 02 DL1000 = (350 watts) ~95 watts to play with
  • 03 & Up DL1000 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with
  • 04-07 DL650 = (375 watts) ~ 120 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
  • 08 & Up DL650 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
  • 02 DL1000 with 05 SV1000 engine & HID headlights & LED's ~ 190 to play with

12. Fuse Sizing for auxiliary equipment. A device is fused properly when the fuse rating is 150% of the max the fused device will draw. Example: Vest using 45 watts: I=P/E; I=45/12.5=3.6 amps. So 150% = 5.4 amps, a 5 amp fuse should be close enough. A lot of devices have an initial surge startup current that is higher than their steady state draw. Also a fuse that is operated very close to it's rated value can heat up over time and blow.

13. Connector & wire connections.

  • A. Connectors. The best way to connect wires to pins for inserting into connector plugs & sockets is to use the correct crimper for the pins you are using. This is an inexpensive
CRIMPER that works for about 95% of the pins out there. Pins can also be soldered if you use the proper equipment and techniques. Incorrect technique can result in broken wires. For most of the people out there it
is best to crimp. Crimp style spade lugs for wires are fine as long as they are crimped & sized properly.
  • B. Connecting wires. I do not recommend any crimp style connections for wires, except spade lug terminals for power blocks. Especially the crimp on wire splices. These wire splices will cut some strains of the wire and let the contaminates in. Wire connections & splices that are soldered and covered with either shrink tubing or a good grade of electrical tape, such as 3M Super 33+, will stand up to the weather and vibrations many times longer then crimp style connectors. Soldered connections will also produce a cleaner (as in not electrical noisy) electrical connection with less voltage drop. This is a good HOW TO SOLDER web site. It doesn't talk about wiring here but the technique is the same. If you can't solder I highly recommend Posi-Lock Connectors , avail at Walmart & auto stores.
  • C. The use of dielectric grease on all non water-resistant connectors is recommended.

14. Wire sizing: